Best Practices for Heating Rooms

Preparation

• The heater, with the aid of additional fans we supply, will treat up to about 900 square feet at a time. You may want to do only one room at a time. (It will heat a smaller area in less time.) You be able to enter any room during treatment. 

• Heat rises. Always try to seal the room(s) to limit the heat from escaping. Cover HVAC vents, bathroom exhaust fans, bottoms of doors, wall air-conditioners, etc… Cover windows pane with blankets or equivalent to minimize loss of energy from cold windows, this is especially important in the Winter. Other materials used can be cardboard,  plastic sheething of 6 mil thickness, 3 mil plastic x 2 (folded plastic sheets equaling 6 mil). Thumb tacks will hold in the plastic. You can use sheet rock screws if you don’t mind patching the holes afterwards.

• Remove items that you would not leave in your car on a hot sunny summer day with the windows closed. Candles, lighters, many foods, candies, etc…

Unplug all electrical items and do not place electrical items directly in front of the heater. Electrical items are rated for higher temperatures than you are heating, just avoid the direct heat coming out of the heater.

• It is best to bag clothes, sheets, etc…, empty bag and run in the clothes dryer for 20 minutes on high. Never leave clothes laying on the floor or other surfaces or they will act as an insulator and it will be difficult to heat under them to sufficient temperatures.

• Open all drawers and separate all items so hot air can easily circulate to everywhere. Stand or block box spring and mattresses so hot air can contact all sides.

Setup

• Place all fans blowing in the area you are heating to circulate the hot air into every nook and cranny. Turn on fans and check to ensure air movement is sufficient. Add more fans if it does not feel like a whirl wind or heat is not blowing into every nook and cranny.

• Turn on heater and make sure all heater light switches that have power are on. Heater switches will not turn on if you do not have power connected to the respective heater switch/inlet. This is okay if you are doing this on purpose because you don’t have or don’t need the full power of the heater.

Other Considerations

• If you have walls and ceilings made of block or concrete, they require more heat because they are more conductive of energy than drywall. This means 1 heater will heat less space when you have walls and/or ceilings with block or concrete. 30% more heat power is a general rule for these rooms. All buildings are not constructed equally and more conductive materials take more energy to heat.

• If you have a Fire Sprinkler System turn the Temperature Controller to 125F. Check to see what trigger temperature your Fire Sprinklers are designed to activate. You will need to treat the room for 10-12 hours as a minimum so make sure you set the high temperature of your heater at least 30F less than the trigger temperature of the fire sprinkler heads